Three Run Jimmy Jack

Sunday the wife and I went surfing in Santa Cruz. Pleasure Point to be exact. The water was cold and the tide was low. The waves were small but very well-formed. I caught 3 of the longest rides of my life. When I was a kid in Minnesota, the idea of surfing in the Pacific Ocean sounded exotic. Now that I live in CA, it still seems pretty exotic, and it is one of my favorite activities. It took me about 30 sessions to even get marginally good, and that's about what I am right now, marginally good. The feeling of being at one with nature is a constant while paddling around on a surfboard in the ocean. I can't help but feel this is where we all came from.